Monday, September 23, 2013

Grouse Hollow Journal for the week of September 19, 2013 by Greg Koelker

During our second week in Colorado, we took some sight seeing tips from our kids and headed west. We drove down out of the mountains - sort of - on I-70, winding our way through the high red rock of Glen Canyon. We drove along the rich valley of Palisades where there are rows upon rows of fruit trees, most notably the incredible Palisades peach. The prairie or mountain valley is obviously prosperous with farms, ranches and towns that are green. Green trees, green pastures, and green lawns even. Interestingly enough, the landscape just to the north of the interstate is dryer and more like the badlands in South Dakota.

Following the signs, we got off the interstate at Grand Junction, a city roughly the size of La Crosse. It reminded me a little of Madison for some reason. We were going to the Colorado National Monument. The boys said we would love “The Monument” as the locals call it. We did. We turned down a boulevard and found the entrance to the park. Immediately we started climbing, twisting round and round up out of the valley. The landscape is rugged but spectacular. The Monument Canyon is the most obvious feature, running the thirty some mile length of the park. We stopped to view and photograph over a dozen times. The canyons are cut deep into sandstone and granite with high cliffs and beautiful rock formations of red and orange and yellow. The bottoms look rough but are mostly green with cottonwoods, grass, and sage. The Ute Indians used to camp in these canyons and there are hiking trails in and out of the deep canyons. The plateau on top is covered with pinion and juniper. Some of the tortured looking trees had signs saying they were estimated to be thousands of years old. We saw many birds, but not much else wildlife-wise, although animals and birds are supposed to be plentiful, including red-tailed hawks and golden eagles, ravens, jays, desert bighorn sheep, and coyotes. The views from Rim Rock drive, which is just that, a highway that winds along the very edge of the canyon, were breathtaking. We could often see back across the valley to Grand Junction and Palisades far off in the distance.

After several hours, we ended up back on I-70 at Fruita, a small town. The lady at the visitor's center was friendly and helpful with maps and history. Their claim to fame is a story of a great train robbery. Butch Cassidy and others had allegedly blown up a train with so much dynamite that most of their take was lost to the explosion before they took off for South America. The other is the Naval Petroleum and Oil Shale Reserves Office. The US Navy took an interest in shale oil as far back as 1951 and in the 70's the Navy conducted extensive tests with the fuels in military and commercial uses. A sign in the the visitors' center said the shale oil and mining industries provide thousands of jobs in the area. I asked the lady about the reserve and she pointed up a canyon behind the town and said, “You're looking at it.”

We headed west again on our way to Moab, Utah. Mark had said to be sure and take Highway 128, not 191. He was right. 128 sliced straight across miles of barren open range land and then dropped down into the Colorado River canyon for mile and miles. It was raining a bit up on the plateau and we saw at least 3 rainbows, but the rain quit when we got in the canyon. The river had long slow stretches punctuated by rapids all surrounded by high walled canyons or far distant vistas with purple plateaus and buttes rising up from the prairie. It was nearing sundown and the canyon walls were red, orange, green, and more purple. The far off rock formations took on shades of bluish/purple or golden orange from the setting sun. El was driving and I was snapping away with my Nikon. We passed incredible looking pastures, obviously irrigated, with fancy horses and mule deer sharing the grass in front of several high end looking dude ranches.

Moab is a pretty neat little town. The main streets and side streets are lined with small shops and restaurants as well as all the modern amenities like MacDonald's and Subway. It is surrounded by desert and parks like Arches and Dead Horse Point and Canyon Lands. We spent the next morning wandering around Arches National Park. The rock formations are almost other worldly as huge buttes of stone have been carved through by the wind and rain to create arches big enough to drive a battleship through. The country is unlike anything I have ever seen. We had a great visit with a German family who was on holiday. They said they couldn't believe how courtious and friendly most
Americans were. One daughter remarked, “They even bagged our groceries in the market.” The father said that in Germany, clerks disappear or are surly to customers. They also commented on some young Germans who were having a raucous time taking pictures of them with arches in the background and booze bottles in front. “They are not real Germans, they are from Bavaria!” said the father.

That afternoon we drove into Dead Horse Point State Park. Mark said it is as close to being in the Grand Canyon as you can get without going there. He was right. Spectacular views of the Colorado River winding and carving its way through desert stone. We were nearly half-a-mile above the river canyon. The cryptic park name comes from a local legend that cowboys would drive mustangs onto the point and block off their exit, making for a natural corral. Of course some unfortunates must have been pushed or jumped to their deaths. Regardless, the views are well worth the trip. We could see the sky blue water of what appeared to be lakes in the distance, but a park ranger said it was a salt operation. The miners injected water into the earth and pumped it back out allowing it to dry in the sun and then collected the salt.

We stayed in Durango that night. Ellen bought a box of Palisades peaches from a street side market and we ate Mexican that night. In the morning we had breakfast with an older couple from Pennsylvania (in their 80's) who were in Colorado for a wedding and then more travel. They said they had friends and family in Wisconsin. He said he had been a Spam salesman for Hormel. I told him I love Spam. He said, “Lots of people do.”

On another tip from our kids, we drove north to Montrose and then on to Silverton and took 550 a.k.a. the Million Dollar Highway to Ouray. Though the entire stretch has the name, the Million Dollar Highway was originally the twelve miles south of Ouray through the Uncompahgre Gorge to the summit of Red Mountain Pass. We met a snowplow coming down the mountain. Uh oh! We wondered what we were getting into. After getting over the pass, we came upon some highway equipment in pull out piled high with red mud and rock that had just been cleared from the road, the remnants of recent rains and flash flooding we guessed. We had to go really slow to keep from sliding. The stretch is challenging and can be hazardous with steep cliffs, narrow lanes, hairpin curves and few if any guardrails. We met a semi on one! We passed what remains of the Idarado Mine. What a place to work! When we first saw Ouray a.k.a. The Switzerland of America, it took our breath away. We were almost right above it, like 1,000 feet on a tight curve with a steep drop. Ouray is at almost 8,000 feet and surrounded by peaks. The town was quaint and I'd like to go back there and stay some day I think. The highway from there to Gunnison was an easy drive down through wide mountain valleys with ranches and prosperous looking homes. I saw my ranch. It was just outside of Fairplay. The arrow straight road was maybe two-miles of reddish dirt, with a winding creek through large pastures and fields. The ranch at the end nestled up against what was probably the foothills of national forest land. The realty sign went by too fast to record it, but if I was going to get a ranch in Colorado, this one would probably make the cut, and it is only two days drive from home and a few hours from the kids. I googled ranches in the area and one 151 acre ranch in that valley was going for $2.4 million. I can get that; I just gotta keep buying those lottery tickets.

We got home in time to celebrate Labor Day weekend with a very successful - and chilly - fishing trip to Lake Onalaska.

Until next time, get out - Ellen and I traveled up to Vilas County this week to begin celebrating our 40th anniversaries with Barb and Chuck. We visited Curt Christiansen in Hazelhurst and stayed in a cabin at the Whispering Pines resort on upper Gresham Lake with a plan to fish in a number of lakes. By the time your read this, we'll be home. More on the north country trip next time. Enjoy.


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